Camp: Notes on Fashion

Just before the exhibition closing, I got up to New York City to see the Costume Institute’s Camp: Notes on Fashion. The show layout is mimicked in the catalog – two volumes that are bound together. The first volume covers the first half of the show, the history and development of camp. For me, this was the best part of the show because it emphasized how intentional dress choice has been throughout history. My favorite piece was this Ocsar Wilde-inspired ensemble from Gucci’s 2017 menswear collection.

Gucci menswearThe second half of the exhibit largely took place in one, two-story room. This was full-on camp. In the catalog, this is volume two, a flip book of all the costume from modern and contemporary designers.

exhibit detailI had a lot of favorites from this huge exhibition, but fell in love with these House of Balenciaga ensembles from the 2016-2017 autumn/winter collection.

Balenciaga dresses

For those of you who couldn’t make it, I do recommend the catalog. The images of the costume portray the fabric and cut, and camp, in clean presentation. The essays are insightful and this was a well-researched show.

While at the Met I caught another show just ending, the textile work of Mrinalini Mukherjee. I’ll share images from that exhibition next month!

Fashion: Now & Then Registration Open

The 9th Annual Fashion: Now & Then: Identity conference will be held November 1st-2nd at LIM College in New York City. Registration is now open.

In this two-day conference participants will discuss the past, present, and future uses of fashion information as it relates to identity. Participants will be drawn from libraries, archives, academic institutions, publishers, collectors, museums, and the fashion industry to represent a full range of expertise.

More information and the conference schedule can be found at the Fashion: Now & Then website.

New Books: August 2019

Are you ready for the new semester? These fresh titles will get those shelves ready for your new students!

Supreme Glamour Mary Wilson, Thames & Hudson; September 2019

Bill Cunningham On the Street: Five Decades of Iconic Photography New York Times, Clarkson Potter; September 2019

Hunks and Heroes Jim Moore: Four Decades of Fashion at GQ, Jim Moore, Rizzoli; September 2019

Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes Dana Thomas, Penguin Press; September 2019

Conde Nast: The Man and His Empire Susan Ronald, St. Martin’s Press; September 2019

Souls Grown Deep

This weekend I finally dropped in to the Philadelphia Museum of Art to see the exhibition Souls Grown Deep: Artists of the African American South. In 2014, the Souls Grown Deep Foundation began transferring a majority of the 1,000 artworks in their collection to permanent collections around the world. Last year, the Philadelphia Museum of Art acquired some of the famous Gee’s Bend quilts as well as sculpture. This exhibition showcased some of these new acquisitions.

Gee’s Bend in Alabama is known for the quilts made there  in the early twentieth century through to today. These artworks are expressive and unique, using scraps of fabric and clothing, patchworks hand-stitched into bed-sized quilts. Many of the quilts in the exhibit are online, so I’ll link to those better quality images.

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Roman Stripes Variation Quilt by Loretta Pettway, 1970

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Pettway was inspired to make this quilt by her stepmother who had created a “crazy” quilt from old pants. There are quite a few Pettway quilters. The Bennett family, including Delia (left) were also prolific and related by marriage to Pettways. Below is Delia’s 1955 Housetop Fractured Medallion Variation.

 

 

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nettie_young_3606Nettie Young’s Milky Way (1971) is part of the Freedom Quilting Bee. Young was a co-manager of the bee and this quilt is an example of the commercialization of the Gee’s Bend quilts. While this quilt is personal, the design is reflective of the contract the bee had with Bloomingdale’s. The department store design a quilt of circles and squares, then commissioned the bee to produce it. These may have been leftover elements from that design.

Gee's Bend Quilt

Right next door to this exhibition was The Art of Collage and Assemblage, a theme that fits will with the Gee’s Bend quilts. One of the pieces is Charlie Logan’s Man’s “Diamond Sis” Coat (1978-84). Logan, often homeless and sick in Alton, Illinois, wore embellished garments like this one. Found objects such as buttons and photos are stitched right in to the jacket.

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Fashion Librarian Spotlight: Lauren Bradley

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Lauren Bradley

Technical Services/Reference Librarian, LIM College & Vice Moderator of FTC SIG

What’s your Go-To Resource to Recommend for FTC Students?

I love showing students WGSN both for their marketing reports and fashion forecasts.  Not only is the information unique and fascinating, the reports are beautiful to look at and students really enjoy them.  “Gen X Men: Style Tribes” is one of my favorite reports to demonstrate the power of their research.  Our Fashion Merch students also really love the Design Resources tools like Colour Play and the Image & Design Library.

 

Tell me about a project you’re working on!

This is my first year organizing our annual Fashion: Now & Then conference, which is in it’s ninth year running (please come!).  This specialized conference focuses on fashion information professional and scholars and this year will have talks on everything from fashion of sex workers to gender presentation.  I attended this conference as an LIS student interning at the Met back in 2010 so it’s wild to me that I’m organizing it now!

 

Are you seeing any trends in FTC student projects/topics/etc?

Our students are nuts for sustainability.  They are very concerned about the environment and climate change.   They have big ambitions to enter the fashion industry and institute change that will lead to a healthier planet for all.  I hope they can hold on to their optimism for change as they enter the industry!

 

What are you currently reading?

I’m a fantasy/sci-fi nut and am now reading The Fate of the Tearling by Erika Johansen.  “Professionally” I am also reading Feminist Fight Club: An Office Survival Manual (For A Sexist Workplace) by Jessica Bennett.

New Books: July 2019

New releases to order in July!

Dapper Dan: Made in Harlem, Daniel R. Day, Random House July 2019

The Fashion Business Reader Joseph H. Hancock II and Anne Peirson-Smith, Bloomsbury July 2019

Faith and Fashion in Turkey: Consumption, Politics and Islamic Identities, Nazli Alimen, I.B. Tauris; June 2019

The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good Elizabeth L. Cline, Plume August 2019

Costume Institute — New Accruals

The Museum Archives at The Metropolitan Museum of Art has opened for research additions to The Costume Institute records, which were previously processed with a generous grant from the Leon Levy Foundation and opened for research in 2015.

The boxes containing these newly processed records (approx. 60 linear feet), which are
numbered 295-428, include materials added to all of the existing series, especially the following:
 Series II. Curators’ and Administrators’ files: Subseries II.B. Stella Blum, Subseries II.D.
Diana Vreeland, and Subseries II.G. Richard Martin
 Series III. Exhibition records: III.GGG. “American Women of Style” (December 13, 1975-
August 31, 1976), III.JJJ. “Vanity Fair: A Treasure Trove of The Costume Institute”
(1977), and Subseries III.WWWW. “Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years –
Selections from the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum” (May 1-July 29, 2000)
 Series IV. Loans: to other museum and organizations from the 1930s-1960s
 Series VII. Operations: Activities of The Costume Institute’s precursor, the Museum of
Costume Art, in the late 1930s
 Series VIII. Party of the Year: events in the 1940s and 1950s.

The original 10 series were in alphabetical order. A new series Series XI. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection Acquisition, has been added at the end, and includes the following materials:
 The Brooklyn Museum’s accession files for costume and textile items from 1903-2003
 Photographs from Brooklyn Museum’s files of costumes and accessories included in the 2009 accession
 Research materials supporting the Brooklyn Museum’s 1982 exhibition “The Genius of
Charles James”
 Records on Charles James originating at The Brooklyn Museum that complement the
Charles James papers in the Costume Institute Library.

The Costume Institute records are currently stored offsite, and reference access to them is provided by Museum Archives. To access folders from the collection for your research:
 Consult the online finding aid
 Determine the boxes/folders you would like to access
 Contact the Archives staff by email (archives@metmuseum) or phone (570-3937) to
schedule a reference visit in the 4 th floor Archives reading room to view the materials
 In planning your research visit, please note that since materials are offsite and it will take 48-72 hours to recall them